Sunday, March 12, 2023

The Mighty Bison

Photo by Gwenna Reich

Today's column is by Ann Vigola Anderson:

There are hidden places in Kansas, known only to kids of my generation, the locals of Gove County, and the intrepid traveler of today. Few pull off I-70, too eager to get to Denver or somewhere with big drinks and snacks. They will miss Kansas’
first National Natural Monument, the Monument Rock formation, reaching up some 50 feet into the Kansas sky.
A place that is as serene and timeless.
It is off the beaten path, there really is no path, and the road is impassable in bad weather. Yet, it is a place of western yore and longing, with the sound of a million bison hoofs thundering on its land, the scent of an ancient ocean caught in its fragile layers and fossils, and the ghost sounds of all those who traveled through the area on the Butterfield Overland Dispatch trail.
Like a lighthouse on the western Kansas horizon, these rocks served to guide those travelers on their arduous journey.
But my cousins and I knew nothing of all of this history. As kids, it was our untouched playground, with towering rocks, endless places to drive our old John Deere toy tractor and truck in the
sandy gravel soil; and to cool against the pale yellow, chalk casting its shade on a hot afternoon.
It was a place we dreamed of the frontier days, Fort Monument, and we were on the lookout for the mighty bison. The bison provided everything for the indigenous tribes, who hunted the ​plains, and for the early settlers and ranchers, who came to
tame the wild west land.
My Mama gave us an old pelt of some animal and that became our bison robe. We scouted for the bison coming and pretended we were hunting on top of mighty painted ponies.
We climbed the smaller rocks and became lookouts for the mail carriers, traveling through the fort on their way to the far west continent.
We circled our wagons and pretended we were cooking up grub from the chuck wagon, biscuits, pork and coffee.
We spent our day lassoing the wild ponies that ran through Gove County and pretended to hunt the antelope that were here long ago.
My granddaddy told of the blizzards back then when there were whiteouts for days on end. A person could get lost and perish just walking ten feet. The only sanctuary might be to hide in
the Monument Rocks, if you were that unlucky traveler.
He told stories of stranded travelers eating their reins and saddles when they had no food in the storm.
Granddaddy told of seeing a mighty bison, bigger than their wagon, standing in the blizzard one time. He said the bison was covered in frost and ice but, blew a mighty cloud of warm mist into the frozen air. He pawed at the snow covering and bent to ​eat the small grasses he found. His fur was the color of chestnut and walnuts, with a thatch of thick, heavy fur on his head, like a magnificent hat. The two large horns curved upward into the thin air and his eyes seemed to know the history of the place.
Granddaddy said he stood near the mighty bison and did not move. The bison shook his head and the scent of the prairie and the western sky floated into the air. He seemed to be made of the very spirit of the West. The mighty bison turned and slowly moved back behind Monument Rock, and then, like a ghost, he was gone.
Granddaddy stayed for a good while, taking in the presence of the majesty of the bison and the amazement of seeing him so closely.
Every time, we kids went to play at the rock, we looked for the grandson of the mighty bison but, there were none to be seen.
We found the arrowheads and fossils and left them in their sacred place. They did not belong to us but, to a different time.
On days when the Kansas sunset catches on the Rocky Mountains and tears open with orange and red, I sit against the rocks and think of their mass buried deep beneath the ground. They are like the tall grasses of the prairie, holding tight to their earth and protecting the secrets of millions of years. And I watch for the mighty bison to walk by me.



Wednesday, March 8, 2023

The Savoy

The Savoy, photo by Deb

 Downtown Kansas City--it's been a while!! We had bona fide Santa Fe Trail business to conduct and we met Nick Abt, Abt Films, in the historic hotel so that he could make some digitized images of the famous Santa Fe Trail murals in the historic bar. While the hotel has undergone some extensive renovations, the room with the Edward Holslag artwork and Harry Truman's booth is still intact, preserved and well-stocked.

Holslag painted these murals in 1903. We were thrilled to be able to preserve the images for posterity and have them in a form to share in the hopes that folks will want to see them in person. This outing was just a part of exploring our symposium theme this year. Art and the Trail. Find information about the symposium at santafetrail.org. It will be held September 27-30 at the Hilton Garden Inn, Independence, MO. 

Joanne VanCoevern, Manager of the Santa Fe Trail Association, and Nick Abt, Abt Films. Photo by Deb


The stunning bar. Photo by Nick Abt

A cozy corner of the room with the mural of Westport Landing above. Photo by Nick Abt

One of my favorite photos of the day! Joanne and I in the Harry Truman booth! Photo by Nick Abt

Planning world domination is fun! Myself, SFTA President Larry Short, Pat Traffas, Greg VanCoevern, and Joanne VanCoevern. Photo by Nick Abt

Thursday, March 2, 2023

Thof's Dragon on YouTube



Ethan Rigss as Medicine Bill Comstock and Carson Norton as Dr. Theophilus Turner climb the steep butte that overlooks the ravine where they discovered an historic fossil. The film is now available on YouTube.


A few years ago, we at the Fort Wallace Museum determined to make a film about the discovery of our elasmosaurus platyurus, the casting of which hangs from the ceiling of our museum. Rather than a documentary, we hoped to do a feature film. We are so fortunate that even with a small population, we have a disproportionate amount of talent and generosity. One of those talented people is Brenda Tropf who teaches art at the high school in Sharon Springs. She used the project to teach students film-making, having already produced some pretty cool student videos on history.


We produced three trailers with no money and hoped to raise money to do a full-on feature film. We didn't raise that. But we were already hooked and through our Logan and Wallace County Foundations, the Lyle Finley Trust, and many generous individuals, we went ahead and made a feature on a shoestring budget.

As Jayne Pearce said, "it's homemade but done very well!"

There are things we would have done differently. For example, the trailer was made to sell the idea and had we gotten more funding, we would have re-shot some scenes with more period-correct details (some of the harness and bits, some clothing details, those little elements really show up to folks who know history). Fact is, we gathered volunteers who showed up on that first incredibly cold morning to ride across the prairie of Wallace County. There were scenes we just had to scrap because we needed professional actors or sets beyond our abilities. 

But what we did achieve, and what is forever preserved on screen, is love and passion for this story. You can buy skills and props; you cannot buy commitment and passion. I am so very proud of Thof's Dragon.

Michael Martin Murphey, the legendary performer/songwriter/actor, generously allowed us to use his version of the classic western song, "Blue Prairie." The result, in my opinion, is priceless. I had this vision for so long--the wagons, the soldiers, and that boundless prairie that had once been a sea. When Brenda was editing that part, she slowed the action, ever so slightly, so that the mules are walking in time to the music, the picks are swung in time to the music, and the result makes my heart soar.

My friend, Ian Hall, a very talented writer and jewelry maker who lives in Topeka but is a native of Edinburgh, Scotland, agreed to narrate the film. I love Ian's voice but I also wanted viewers to understand how many immigrants were in the army at that time. 

On screen, the figure of the narrator is so powerfully portrayed by rancher Donald Geist of Wakeeney. As he walks across the landscape, recalling the thrilling days gone by, his face says it all. We could not have selected anyone better to portray the fictional character who told our story.

I had never met Carson Norton (from the Norton Art Studios family of incredibly talented folks), until we began filming. The first time I saw him he was wearing the uniform of an 1860s era army surgeon. It took my breath away. His resemblance to Dr. Theophilus Turner was uncanny.

Ethan Riggs portrayed scout William "Medicine Bill" Comstock after months of my stalking him. I first met him at a wedding where he and his own future bride, Merabeth, were our tablemates. I couldn't stop staring at his blue eyes and asked if he ever re-enacted. Finally, I convinced him I was not entirely a crazy woman and he gave in. He was wonderful.

Of course, the foundation for the film project is the story itself--the discovery of an incredibly important fossil in present-day Logan County. The Fort Wallace post surgeon, Dr. Turner, along with Comstock, made this discovery and a few years ago, some of Dr. Turner's letters were discovered and published in an article in the Kansas historical quarterly. Kenneth Almy's article shared the letters from his wife's ancestors that brought the story of this discovery to life.

I was so fortunate to visit the Drexel Academy of Natural Sciences in Philadelphia and read those letters, actually hold them, and actually touch the fossilized bones of the creature found in western Kansas.




Any story of paleontological significance in Kansas must rely on the expertise of Mike Everhart. Mike has long been a friend to our museum as well as so many other institutions. His research and personal discoveries add to the richness of this story and provide necessary background. For anyone who is not familiar with Mike's work, visit the website http://oceansofkansas.com. It not only contains information about Dr. Turner and the details of his find, but so many other important discoveries and personalities involved.

Mike's book, Oceans of Kansas, is simply unmatched in its scope and depth and should be on the shelf of every family in the state. 

Our film ends with the music of Valarie Smith, whose original songs express so eloquently the emotional impact of this story. Other musicians who gave so generously of their time and talents were Steve Kilby and Kendra and Josiah Akers.  

There is no way here to list all the people who came together to make this happen. It is not a documentary; it is a feature with solid history and a rich story and so much love and commitment put into it. To watch, find the link on the Fort Wallace facebook page or simply search for Thof's Dragon on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/v-b_zmlLQ9o


Sunday, February 26, 2023

Happy Birthday, Bill

William F. "Buffalo Bill" Cody was born on this day in 1846 in Iowa. The Codys moved to Kansas as the Territory opened and were front and center of American history from that day on. 

Bill Cody was a complex man and I have been completely seduced by him. I see his flaws, but his incredible spirit makes up for them. 

This is my favorite photo of him, a young man, whose eyes had already seen death and loss and injustice. What an incredible face. . . .




 

Tuesday, February 14, 2023

Be My Valentine

While perusing the newspapers researching items of histoic note, I came across these Valentine's Day jewels. First, this ad for Valentines that ran in the Daily Kansas Tribune several days in 1866:


I'm not sure what advertising class that typesetter attended, but they definitely got the point across.

Then we get the sentimental Valentine stories with fittingly sappy illustrations. These are from the February 14 edition of The Leavenworth Standard in 1888:



One notice that was particularly interesting from an 1866 paper was an editorial decrying the decline of Valentine's Day and explaining that not as many Valentines are mailed these days. The stores used to be decked out for Valentine's Day and now they are dull by comparison. If only that editor could travel in time to Walmart in January!!


1890s Valentine


Tuesday, February 7, 2023

Sheridan--the Hell-on-Wheels Town


 

The town of Phil Sheridan, Kansas, is long gone. Its life was short and eventful, its inhabitants the fodder of dime novels. Hundreds of thousands of pounds of freight moved through the temporary town--wool from Santa Fe, flour from Trinidad, dry goods from the East. And the buffalo hunters!!! Hides were literally moving the manufacturing machines in the northeast and meat was feeding the railroad workers.

Mike Boss, artist from Hill City, KS, has painted many scenes from the pages of history books. Above is his depiction of one of those hunters at Sheridan.

At the Fort Wallace Museum, we have established a research committee that is compiling the information we have on Sheridan and searching out other sources. Our Capt. Myles Keogh Research Library will be the repository for these materials and we will find ways to share the results--a booklet, for example. 

If you have maps, letters, manuscripts that would offer more details on this short-lived but incredibly interesting town, please share with us.


Thursday, February 2, 2023

Wild Bill Returns to Shawnee

 


The midnight shift of the Shawnee Police Department visited their predecessor Wild Bill on what they called "his first midnight shift in over a century." The sculpture on Shawnee Mission Parkway was to have been created by artist Charles Goslin who passed the commission to Maretta Kennedy, according to posts on the Shawnee PD's social media.

A few years ago, I appeared in an episode of AHC's Gunslingers series on James B. Hickok. I had several friends involved in that segment--Thom Ross, Johnny D. Boggs, Paul Hutton, Drew Gomber, Bob Boze Bell. Even though it was recorded back in 2013, it still airs regularly. Watch the trailer here: https://youtu.be/2UbGYExkiI8

Photo Courtesy of the Shawnee Kansas Police Department

The Mighty Bison

Photo by Gwenna Reich Today's column is by Ann Vigola Anderson: There are hidden places in Kansas, known only to kids of my generation, ...